Ambrym's Shore

Two crew members jumping the 12 metre drop off Ambryn's coast line. Love that our lady The Soren Larsen is watching in the background.  Sorry to say my nerve got the better of me and I did not participate.

We visited Ambrym twice during our two months cruising Vanuatu and it was the second time round that I got the chance to go ashore and take these photos. Known as the black magic capital of Vanuatu, the island has a reputation for witch craft. 

Its also renown for its Carvings, with many sent to the Capital, port villa, to be sold to tourists.

 Spending a few hours on the shore line was exactly what I needed , ready to rest up for a rather long trek the next day. But with the promise of seeing a live volcano, it would be worth blistered feet...

Football in Ureparapara

Another place I had heard about from other crew and was eager to see. Ureparapara, or also named 'that island where you sail into a volcanoe' certainly made a first impression.  A volcanic island, the harbour was created millions of years a go when the volcano exploded out.  What was left was a perfectly sheltered harbour with a small gap going out to sea.  Great for anchoring up, however as crew we had to use our sailing skills when the engine decided to play up just as we entered the harbour's mouth.   We had all sailed onto anchor before, yet the pressure of almost 360 degrees of surrounding land certainly got the adrenaline pumping.

Three  words sum up my first impression of Ureparapara - King Kong's home.  With the steep surrounding hills, constant cloud coverage and drizzle, I was expecting to hear roars and stomping from the jungle. However, a big ape did not appear to fight with a t-rex at the harbours shore. Instead The Soren Larsen received visits from outriggers and the local chief.

As permanent crew must only have rostered time ashore (enough people must stay aboard to get the anchor up) I had an afternoon on Ureparapara.  However, my time was not wasted.  Although I did not  hike up the hills to get an awe inspiring photo of Diver's harbour, I did;

Watch the kids show crew members a thing or two about football before taking part in a crew vs villagers football game.  We won but I think this was due to our 'extra' local players.

 A walk in the rain, later sheltering in a kid's playhouse.

 Watching a custom dance complete with special head wear.

Then making our way back through the village, meeting new faces.

Twin Waterfall

On Vanua Lava Island, which we past heading to the Banks islands, we stopped off at a place called 'twin waterfalls.' Like the title gives away, this village lies next to two brother waterfalls that jetted out at such a power, this is as closest a picture that I dared. I feared of the water spray would reach my  on my camera (AKA - my baby) or I'd slip into the water pool. But fear not readers, soon I will track down the pictures of someone who wasn't a big scaredi cat.  

With the waterfalls filling a large pool good for swimming (and deep enough to jump from the rocks), some of the locals tried to teach us water dancing. In this women use the water like a musical instrument. My attempts to master this art form were rather clumsy, but by the end I kind of had it figured...sort of.

Whilst ashore we were also given another distinctive dance and singing (I'm seeing a trend here), complete with costumes and flowers. However, rather than being same same but different (don't get me started on string bands), the singing was absolutely beautiful and unique to what I'd heard before.

Yet it wasn't the waterfalls or the dancing that really struck me about this place. There was two things I really remember.

1. The image of a very small child taking a pet parrot around with him on a stick.  Cute at first sight before realising the parrots wings were badly mutilated and therefore could not fly. I like to think this wasn't done by humans and the child had rescued his new found friend from an accident.

2. One boy using his out rigger - pictured below - to catch the waves and surf them. Legend.

Twin Waterfalls - Another great location brought to you by Vanuatu and The Soren Larsen.

Small nambis get their groove on

Yes that is a leaf wrapped around his 'nambis.'  The villagers of Banham bay belong to the 'small nambis' affiliation rather than the 'big nambis' group - who live in land. Many of you who know that nambis means penis might be giggling a little, but  I want to clarify one thing (which needed to in turn be told to me whilst I was sniggering like a little girl); the size of each tribes nambis refers to the decoration size on the genitalia, not the er, package.

In their custom dress the people of Banham Bay were good enough to demonstrate their dancing.  Screened from the main village (women - as in local women - are not permitted to watch) the men's dancing and singing was amazing, full of life and all performers put in their all.

When we watched the women's singing and dancing, I was struck by their dress a lot more.  After the missionaries converted the Vanuatan's, women began to cover up, which is standard practise today. However,when it comes to their customs, the old ways take over. And the old ways, rock the house.

Thank you again Banham Bay for welcoming us into your home.