The time I fell apart in Christchurch

Before I reached Christchurch, I thought I had a good understanding of what I'd find.  It may have been three years since the infamous earthquake hit the city, but local news had informed me that this place was still knee deep in rubble, insurance backlog and major construction.

We arrived in the early evening, travelling all day by coach.  After walking (what seemed like miles) to our motel, me and Zim decided to go for a walk around the city centre, or the 'red zone' as it has become known.   It was a beautiful Sunday evening; a sure sign that summer was on its way.  In this once bustling city centre, the scene was the closest to apocalyptic I have ever seen. Some areas were completely cleared, you'd never of suspected a multi-story building, filled with busy offices, once lived.  Other areas were just mounds of rubble, chaperoned by bull dozers and cranes.  Then there were the derelict buildings, with half missing chunks.  Some buildings seemed totally intact, and yet, they were completely abandoned.

As all the construction workers were away from this scene, the place was deserted.  We shared the streets with a few people, just shapes in the distance. This, in the biggest city in the South Island.  Perhaps it was due to the time and day we came to Christchurch and the still weather, but my first impression of Christchurch was eerie.

Over the next few days we went about our business and got things done. I had my breast biopsy and ultrasound, we found a cool 'scaffold' bar to drink in and hung out in the botanical gardens, which I must say, are the most beautiful public gardens I've been to in a long time.  But it’s an incident near a busy road that will stay with me forever...

So being the tourists we are, we went looking for the Cardboard Cathedral.  After the demise of the Cathedral, a pop up one was quickly constructed to help the community in their time of need.  It’s not every day you see a cardboard building, so we went off through the devastated city.
About a block from the Cathedral, we found the memorial. There are many memorials in Christchurch but this one stopped me in my tracks.  On a cleared area stood nearly 200 white chairs; 185 to be exact. It seemed every type of chair possible stood in that area. Stools, rocking chairs, modern style and antique all placed together.

Its when I saw the baby seat that I just lost my shit and begun to cry; in broad daylight, in the middle of the street.  Try as I might, the tears wouldn't stop.
A chair for every person who lost their lives, tailored to their age, personality and lifestyle.

The abandoned red zone was creepy, but this was the real tragedy from the earthquake.
I have seen many memorials throughout the world, whether its for a great battle praising sacrefice and valor, or a dedication to a local legend, but nothing has hit me as hard as this one.  The artist showed such dedication and care for the victims, to show that they were not just a number, that they lived, breathed, felt and loved.

In that moment I felt the unfairness of it all, that this could happen and there was no one to blame.

I would never take away my visit to Christchurch. A wounded city, that has lost so much but felt so very human, with its regeneration, ongoing construction and wish to honor its loved ones

The seals of Kaikoura

Found on the east coast of New Zealand's South Island, the small township of Kaikoura is a pretty special place.  Not only is it a landscape where sea and mountains meet, it also posesses unique access to whales, dolphins and other marine life.  Due to very deep oceans just off the coast, animals such as sperm whales, which are usually found far away from land, come to feed. 

But when I spent a few days in Kaikoura, I didn't go and swim with Dolphins or spot giant mammals from a boat. I took pictures of Seals. A lot of pictures.

I just think seals are awesome.  In the water, lazing in the sun, from pup to bull, it doesn't matter.

I think they are so cool I even payed to swim with them.  Taken out on a boat to where the inquisitive adolescents live, I spent hours watching, dancing and playing with these amazing creatures.  There is also nothing so cute as over twenty seal pups playing under a waterfall.

I think they are by far my favourite New Zealand Mammal.

Where I've been whilst my blog slept

Ah old friend, its really been too long.  And all this time I've missed you, really I have.  This blog is just a drop in an ocean of electronic information, a feeble little thing chronically this human's life.  But I've missed our catch-ups, at having a space just for me.

For five months I haven't been around. For the most part this is due to my move to New Zealand's wilderness, where Internet is not an option. And its been fantastic, completely switching off and doing all those things I've been putting off like reading books again and running (yep I run now, believe me no one is as shocked as myself).

If I'd really tried I know I could have kept updates going. I could of scheduled posts while I was away for six weeks and then spent my leave weeks scrambling about putting it all together.  But I didn't want to. What I wanted was to engross myself in my surroundings and if I'm honest, get my passion back. Well I found it.

This is Fiordland -  my beautiful home for the past few months.

In my lifetime, I've experienced some amazing sights, but nothing could prepare me for the natural splendour that is Fiordland national park.  

With two more months left of my seasonal work, this blog will remain on the quiet side for a little longer, but I will return.  Bush life has got me feeling a lot more creative and there are some exciting times a head.

See you in a little while,

Helen x

11 days away...

All has been rather quiet on the blog front as we took a brief holiday to Kaikoura. Stopping in Wanaka and Christchurch on the way, I've been enjoying the life of a holiday maker.  Going fishing, long bus journeys, eating seafood and swimming with wild seals (my new favourite animal) has been my life these past eleven days.  Lots to tell but for now I'll leave you with this lazy seal and Kaikoura's amazing mountain range.

 My silence has also been a little longer than planned after my laptop decided to break.  The WiFi doesn't work anymore so I'm back to internet cafes and less frequent posts.

Now we're back in Queenstown for a few days, preparing all the bits and bobs before we head to the Milford track to start work.  I'm currently trying to shift my brain out of holiday mode and into working, but still my head is filled with seal pups and overland travel. Wish me luck!!!!

A job in the wilderness

With the seasons changing and our time in Queenstown coming to a close, I'm looking forward to our next adventure.  A couple of days ago, me and the man were offered jobs working in one of New Zealand's most remote and beautiful locations.  

For the summer season it looks like we'll be working as lodge attendants on the Milford Track. Only accessible via land on a 53.5 km walking track, it will mean weeks of living in the wilderness.  Back to a life of , generator power, rationed chocolate, thinking time and no internet or tv. This will have its challenges but also be an experience of a life time. It may also lead to me becoming a certified nerd and getting into bird watching. I am genuinely excited about this. That's the kind of person I've grown up to be. I've also been wanting some time away from it all, where I can work, save some money, focus on some hobbies and start thinking about my next move.  And dare I say it, I actually want to get some writing done.  Some dreadful 'creative writing;' that thing I've been blocking out since finishing uni. Perhaps I'll inflict it on the world again.

Working in the Australian outback and sailing on the Soren Larsen, I have an idea of how such isolating spots can affect you, but still I want to do it all again. 

 It will mean we'll only have a few weeks between leaving our apartment in Queenstown and then starting our training, so a  mega road trip will have to wait a while. However, two weeks will be enough to fit a few things in and have a proper 'holiday.' I feel all we've done since getting to New Zealand is work (except for out recent trip to Dunedin) and so a break would do us good.

Still, with a few weeks left on the ski fields and a couple more weeks after that in Queenstown.  I'll keep you posted on developments. x

* Picture via Pinterest here.

A trip to Dunedin

After 6 months in New Zealand, we finally spent a night out of Queenstown. After getting word that some friends would be in Dunedin, we booked two days off work, got a room in the city and bought bus tickets.

The adventure started with a morning panic to get ready but as soon as we sat down on the coach, everything was smooth sailing. In our four and a half hour journey, I was blown away by the countryside. From the orchards and the little farm houses, to the never ending fields of sheep, every thing  was so god damn cute. I've never seen grass so lush and vivacious in colour.

When we got to our destination, we were given the best time.  I put this down to three factors.

1. Friends.  Meeting up with great people wherever you are is always good. Unless its some where war torn, or sStoke-on-Trent. Catching up and then receiving some excellent kiwi hospitality was the icing on the cake. I especially appreciated the bacon and eggs cooked for us.

2. Our hotel. After searching trivago.co.nz  for a bargain deal, I was expecting Southern Cross to be a let down. It ended up exceeding them. For someone used to 5 star hotels this place wouldn't get them excited, but to me it was pure luxury. A proper bath, free hot beverages, flat screen TV and a bed so comfy I didn't want to leave.  And did I mention the bath robes. They had proper ones so you know this place was classy. 

3. The weather. I'm pretty sure Dunedin is not always so sunny. But for our two days in town the sun kept on shining. It made drinks in the sunshine all the more appealing.

We didn't spend our time rushing around Dunedin trying to see as much as possible. There was no hurry. We looked up at the fantastic architecture, visited the Chinese gardens and the settlers museum, which being a history geek I love that shit.  We were having such a great time, I hardly got my camera out.

When we took our bus back to Queenstown, I tried taking some blurry bus pictures of the countryside, but it just can't show how beautiful it is. Come visit and you'll see.

Spring is here. Oh no wait....

I looked out my window and thought 'This must be spring.'  The blossom trees were out, the birds were a singing and the sun was out in force.
To celebrate, I walked the Frankton trail. An easy walking trail next to the lake, this is the perfect lazy paced walk (no hills!).   With the help of my trusty headphones I got lost in imagining this place in summer and how awesome it would be. There is so much room next to the lake, everyone can have a space.

Daffodils? I mean come on - this is definitely spring right?   Apparently not. The next day it snowed. Although it didn't lay in town, the snowline came down pretty low.  My day dreams of swimming in the sun came to an abrupt halt, but I did head where Snow is not a problem.

So now you'll find me in limbo, wanting a warmer season and yet still begging for the white stuff.

And then everything went white.

At the beginning of the week, the first snowfall hit town.  I woke up to find the mountains and lake hidden behind clouds.  All day it kept up and I thanked my lucky stars I didn't have to go out in it, unlike Zim, who had to spend the day up to his ankles in the white stuff.  Instead I watched the world from my window.  With  an indecisive heater for company, I was looking rather fetching in my 500 layers and tomato soup for company.

I love the transformation snow allows a location. It makes me feel like I've stumbled through a wardrobe and into Narnia. However, it wasn't until the next day that we could all see its effect on the mountains.

The snowfall felt really special, as if we were being given a glimpse of things to come.  Incidentally, it also coincided with some pretty amazing news which I feel will make my New Zealand adventure, much, much better.  I've been a bit rubbish on the blog front lately and have a lot of explaining to do, but don't you worry, all will be revealed.  

Arrowtown

A couple of weeks ago, I decided to make the most of the sunny weather and make my first escape from Queenstown. With my other half and good friend from home busy working (at this point the only people I knew in town), it was time for a solo adventure. This involved a half hour bus ride to Arrowtown, the ex-gold rush town embracing its passed.  Arrowtown could be described as a little bit 'twee' with its boutique sewing shops and well maintained flower baskets. I'm pretty sure all the other tourists had done at least one wine tour and only ate organic produce.  But I have a soft spot for twee. It usually goes hand in hand with picturesque settings and great hot beverages.

 This town also added in a little history, which sealed the deal for a history geek like me.  The thing I find most fascinating about New Zealand's history is the diversity of immigrants carving out a life here. From the Maoris reaching the shores via Wakas to the European Settlers, its a story of people searching for a better way of life, or just to live at all.  The Chinese miners of Arrowtown are an example of this.  Their reconstructed huts next to the river are a fascinating look at  New Zealand's history.

Beautiful, easy going and visitor friendly, Arrowtown was a great place to spend a few hours.  I can't wait to get back and try out a few walking trails.