We sail to Rarotonga: Part two

Once we hit half way, the craving for our tropical island really began to take hold. One of the mates drew up a do-it-yourself-chart, in which everyday we could plot our progress. Each day I would check if it had been updated. Later on I began checking the coordinated on the chart back aft to see where we were. For some reason I found reassurance looking at a piece of paper and noting that we were getting closer.

 Four days after the halfway party, the wind came to an almost stand still .

 Not good for a sailing vessel. 

As the ship wasn't moving quickly, the waves could wreck havoc knocking the ship violently from side to side.

On the plus side, the weather started to heat up as soon as we headed north.  The more north we went,  the less layers were needed on deck. The full wet weather gear of the Southern waters was replaced with the t-shirt and shorts of the tropics.

The fishing lines began to actually  catch fish,  with this huge Mahi Mahi feeding all 18 of us for dinner.  A modest tuna didn't get that far, but was a good appetiser.

And then, on a afternoon, so distant I first mistook it for cloud, the mountains of Rarotonga were sighted. By breakfast we circled the island, awaiting customs to answer our radio calls. 

Rarotonga was different to how I imagine. With the rain clouds hitting its forest covered peaks, it looked like the setting of King Kong.  From a far the sandy beaches weren't visible and I wasn't sure we'd come to the right island, it was something spectaluar to photograph! It looked beautiful and after 18 days at sea, a tropical island was exactly what I had in mind.

Time travel on the high seas

No - the Bermuda triangle didn't shift its position, and this ship isn't a time machine. But one of the symptoms of sailing across oceans is moving time zones and sometimes,  crossing the date line. So after having a Sunday 29th April, the next day we had another. Two Sundays and neither that different.  Still surrounded by blue, still sailing and still  afloat. The only difference is we were one day closer to our destination.  I've experienced time and date changes before, but its usually the follow up to a long plane journey where your brain is already out of sync. Crossing the date line on water made me realise how far we were travelling and how far we'd come.

A few days later and the clocks went forward. When some one mentions daylight savings and clocks going back I always want to know one thing; 'will I get more sleep?' Unfortunately changing time zone did not mean more sleep this time, but it did mean I finished my watch on deck an hour early.  What really hit me was how a time to change clocks was decided by the captain, at a time to best suit the ship on that day.  When it comes to time travel on a tall ship, the outside world comes second.

We Sail to Rarotonga: Part One

The sea sickness came back pretty quickly as we waved goodbye to the hole in the rock and New Zealand's shore line. Yet again  I found myself lunging over the side, wondering if I'd make it down to my bunk without needing to run to the heads.  Down below its worse (unless you're lying down) and is usually trigger to nausea.  However, this time there were two key differences from the Tasman sea crossing. One: It only  lasted 24 hours instead of 72.  And two: After being through it before, I was safe in the knowledge that it would get better, that this would not last the whole trip and I wasn't the only one feeling it!

  

For the first few days the weather was good and therefore, the galley was a lot less 'rolly' . As there were not so many crew on this voyage, I even began doing one part of a watch (12-4) to get me out on deck.  As well as taking in/out sails, there's steering at the helm and bow watch, a lot of bow watch.  As I usually did the breakfast shift, this worked well.  We were also pretty lucky with the wind and the motor was only turned on a hand full of times. But  there were  the blitz storms ,referred to as squalls,  which brought sudden rain, wind and huge waves within  seconds. At these times everyone on deck would need to act quickly, bringing in sails that would likely be damaged in such rough weather. And then, as soon as the orders were carried out, the rain would stop and the oceans would calm, as if it never occurred.  

  

Out in the pacific ocean, the Albatrosses and other sea birds welcomed us back by escorting  us for miles . At one point swallows caught in the wind, also kept us company. If they stopped on the ship, I was told by the 1st mate, it was a sign they were exhausted and unlikely to make it back to shore.  I like to pretend he's wrong and that they all made it to shore. That they were just saying hello. However, other than the winged creatures, there were no signs of life. No ships, no fish, no whales. Nada.

That's one of the biggest experiences I've taken away from open water sailing, the feeling of isolation from human civilisation. Naturally you make your own on the ship with your crew mates, but out here, you are alone, surrounded by blue, blue and more blue. 

As daily routine set in and there was little to occupy your mind,  the goal you're all working towards - sighting the Island of Rarotonga - takes up alot of your thinking space.  With the days blurring into one another, you cannot help but wonder what's in store for us in a few weeks time and what we'll find.  Everyone has the stereotype of a pacific Island, but do they all look like that? how will Rarotonga differ or conform?

Then on a Saturday night- it was time to celebrate. After 8 days we'd made it halfway through our journey. With pizza, tacos, prizes and questionable dress-up (the theme was 'halfway'), the crew had the best possible party you could have when a 3rd of the crew were on watch.  The 'prizes,' which were pulled from a hat were a little suspect. They included 'get out of cleaning a head' card and another crew member had to wear a cocktail dress for dinner (FYI - he looked stunning). Mine was to make the captain breakfast in bed.  The party may have been the soberest get together I've been to since primary school, but it was great for the crew to be silly in a usually demanding environment.

Then the next day it was back to normal, the weather still cold, the sea still blue and me asking 'are we there yet?'

Last days of New Zealand

Before embarking on our leg to the cook islands, we spent four more days in the Bay of islands.  Anchoring each night in a different bay, the water was so calm you'd think we were on a lake.  Serene ad beautiful, yes, but at the back of my head a little voice said 'the longer is it till we leave,  the harder the seasickness.' I shook this voice off and continued admiring the view.

I enjoyed watching the natural world and the native wildlife. on a few occasions blue penguins popped up next to the ship and dolphins still hitched a ride on the bow.

One morning we were having breakfast when some one called out 'dolphins!!!!!'  When I left the deckhouse you could see them coming a mile off, a whole pod making their way across the still water to the ship . One after the other, they made their way past. Above is the best shot I could manage and still does not capture how graceful these creatures moved in the water.. 

In a final farewell to civilisation, I had a extra large Cappacino in Russell. For some reason Coffee isn't so much fun without the foam.

And then, on a friday afternoon, we passed by 'the hole in the rock' and sailed away from New Zealands shores. With the sunsetting I remember thinking 'this is a beautiful part of the world.' but at the moment I want somewhere a little warmer- and less drizzle.

Our next leg is a big one. Last year it took them 19 days to reach the Cook Islands from New Zealand, and depending on the weather, it could take longer.  After running into two storms on the Tasman, I mentally prepared myself for sleepless nights, runaway food and homicidal cooking equipment.

Shore leave in Paihia

Between refit and sailing the Tasman, there has been zero time off.  Thankfully, even with the short turnover before our  next voyage begins, all crew were allocated 24 hours away from the ship. My time started at 6pm Sunday night and ended 6pm Monday.  So what to do with a day off the ship?

First you book a room at a motel in Paihia, a quick skip and jump away from Opua. Aloha resort was everything and more we could have wanted for our stay. Near town, large clean room, TV, kitchen, shower, free Internet and a patio area. Oh and its also cheap as, god love off season prices.

Then you add a little alcohol.

You take a lot of long showers.  None of them are less than 30 seconds.

Perhaps order a takeaway - Indian is preferred.

oh and you'll find yourself glued to the music videos and realise you have no idea who any of the artists are.

You probably will sleep in. The double is too much to resist after life in a single bunk.  But when you do start to stir (and have had your morning coffee), its worth walking to the beach...

The morning is beautiful, the people far between.

After checking out late (already prearranged), you buy a few bits and pieces you 'need' before hitting the Pacific islands. i.e Snorkel gear, sunblock, antiseptic and sunglasses. You buy more coffee, just because you can.
Rain comes in and its time to share a pizza.  But you guys might stop there and leave the wine alone, maybe that's just me.

You also need a haircut, those split ends are terrible. Even though you are more scared of Hairdressers than dentists, you go through with it. It ok, you survived.  have another coffee to calm your nerves. 

And then it was time to head home to the ship, meet our new voyage crew and return to my bunk (good bye double bed, it was great while it lasted!). 

A town like Paihia was the perfect place for our shore leave. Set up for tourists, we could easily feel comfortable without having to ask  around and unnecessarily explore. 

But now, our next journey begins. To Rarotonga we go!!!

Exploring the bay of Islands

The next day we moved over to New Zealand's oldest European settlement, Russell. A sleepy tourist village, after doing some food shopping for the ship, I had about 40 minutes free time.

 I chose to spend my time buying a hat and drinking a little coffee. 

Other crew members decided on another approach....

Yep, two of our deck hands decided that what they really needed to remind them of their ocean passage was matching yellow smiley faces on their arses. No, I am not joking.

After Lunch and all parties were back aboard, The Soren cruised over to Robertson Island, where one of Soren Larsen's old skippers is now care taker.  When I went a shore, I made the decision not to take a camera. Some times we can get so caught up in capturing moments, you're not really present. I walked the beach, looked for interesting shells and sat by a calm lagoon.  It was great to have time alone and not be thinking about anything in particular.  I have to say that island was one of the most beautiful places on earth.

That night we ate mussells, cockles and a BBQ. I was also introduced to fig-eras which tasted amazing.  In the morning there was some sailing to be done - and the ship was taken out to see for the day. Setting anchor at Russell, the voyage crew left on the Friday morning. It was sad to see some great people leave to move on with their travels.

And now, its turn around time. Sitting along side in Opua, all hands are busy setting up the ship for our next big voyage - our 32 day trip to the Cook Islands.

Arriving in New Zealand

A day after sighting land and making our way down the coast, we anchored at Opua to be processed by customs and then stay the night. Have to say, arriving in a new country via a Tall ship is probably the coolest way I've crossed a border.  With a break in the watch system, voyage crew could let off some steam. For me highlights included driving the tender (I am determined to become a pro by the end of the season) and hopping on land to get an ice cream. After the rough seas of the Tasman, the bay of islands welcomed us with calm waters, finally we could make pancakes! Sounds trivial but breakie ideas in a rolling ship can get quite hard to come up with. ....

And the next day, we went to explore the bay of islands further...